FAQ
Frequently asked questions
Straight answers to the questions that come up most — cost, internet, renting, brands, privacy, voice assistants and where to begin.
Do I need to know how to code?#
No. Most automations are built through a graphical editor, and community blueprints cover the common cases. Reading YAML helps when you want something finer — and it is a configuration language, not a programming language: an afternoon is enough to grasp the essentials.
How much does it cost to start?#
An honest start has three items: the server (appliance, Raspberry Pi with an SSD, or a mini PC), a Zigbee coordinator, and three to five sensors. After that, every device is a separate decision. The expensive mistake is buying large kits before understanding what your home needs — almost everyone who does that ends up with a drawer full of unused gadgets.
Does it work without internet?#
With Home Assistant running locally, yes: automations, sensors, local dashboards and switches keep working while the internet is down. What stops are external services — weather forecasts, push notifications away from home, cloud assistants, and devices that depend on a vendor's server.
I rent. Can I still automate?#
Absolutely. Avoid anything that requires construction work:
- Smart bulbs and plugs instead of modules inside the wall
- Battery sensors attached with double-sided tape
- Standalone Zigbee buttons that replace switches without rewiring anything
- Infrared control for air conditioning (one IR blaster covers several units)
When you move, everything leaves with you in a single box.
Which brand should I buy?#
The better question is: "does this device work locally?". Prefer, in this order: Zigbee, Matter over Thread, devices running ESPHome or Tasmota, and Wi-Fi devices with a local integration. Avoid products that only work through the vendor's app with a mandatory cloud account — they are the first to become e-waste when the company changes strategy.
Do I have to drop Alexa and Google?#
No. They remain excellent as a voice interface. The difference is that they now command Home Assistant, which is what actually decides. If the service goes down or you switch assistants, your automations survive.
Zigbee or Wi-Fi for sensors?#
Zigbee, almost always. Wi-Fi sensors use far more power (they rarely last years on a battery), take up addresses on your network and overload the router. Details in Zigbee in practice.
Does Matter solve every compatibility problem?#
It solves many, but it is not magic: the specification covers device categories progressively, and a vendor's advanced features do not always fit the standard. Matter guarantees the basics working everywhere — which is already a lot. See Matter and Thread.
Is my data safe?#
With local processing, your data stays in your house. The practical rules: enable two-factor authentication, never expose Home Assistant directly to the internet (use a VPN or Nabu Casa), keep encrypted backups off the server, and put cameras on a network without internet access.
Is an SD card really that bad?#
Yes, for permanent use. The Home Assistant database writes continuously and consumer cards fail from wear, usually between 6 and 18 months — and the failure tends to be silent until the day nothing boots. NVMe SSD or eMMC, always.
Where do I start today if I am short on time?#
- Install Home Assistant on simple hardware
- Integrate what you already have on the network (TV, vacuum, printer, receiver)
- Buy a Zigbee coordinator and one motion sensor
- Automate one real annoyance (the hallway light at night is usually the best first case)
- Only then plan the whole house